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The Ultimate Guide To The Khaki Cotton Suit 

Everything you need to know about the khaki cotton suit.

There’s a lot to love about a khaki cotton suit. It’s classic. It’s versatile. It’s light and breathable. And there are myriad ways to style it. In fact, I’d go so far as to call it a must-have spring and summer suit for any man.

In this post, we’re going to take a look at everything related to the khaki cotton suit. There’s a lot to cover so let’s just get right to it!

But first, here’s a quick table of contents for this post:

  • A Very Brief History Of Khaki
  • Are Khaki Suits Still In Style?
  • Should You Own A Khaki Suit?
  • Benefits Of A Khaki Cotton Suit
  • What Goes Well With A Khaki Suit
  • The He Spoke Style Khaki Cotton Suit & My Styling

Here we go!

A Very Brief History Of Khaki

Like a lot of menswear, khaki’s origins are military in nature and based on practicality. To find it’s roots, we travel with the British Army to India during the mid-19th century. At the time, soldiers wore bright white uniforms, which they found not only uncomfortable in the quite hot Indian climate, but also easily noticeable, making them easy targets.

In order to solve for both of these problems, the soldiers began dyeing their uniforms with a heady mixture of tea, curry, and mud. The result was a dusty, earthy color that proved much better as camouflage in the Indian landscape. The new uniform color was dubbed “khaki,” which is a Persian word that means “dust” or “earth.”

A Boer War-era period post card showing the popular new khaki colored uniforms.

The British Army officially adopted this new khaki uniform by the time of the Second Anglo-Afghan War in 1878 and the world took notice of the uniform’s practicality and effectiveness. By the early 20th century khaki became the standard color for military uniforms in a variety of Western countries and widely used by soldiers on all sides during World War II.

Following the end of World War II, as often happens, these uniforms — or at least versions of them — found their way into civilian attire. Since then, khaki has become an extremely popular color for a plethora of garments, from suits to sport coats to the iconic casual khaki cotton trousers.

Are Khaki Suits In Style?

A khaki cotton suit is a classic piece of menswear. And you know what they say about classics, right? Right, they never go out of style. So to answer the question “are khaki suits in style?” — yes, khaki suits are most certainly in style. Full stop.

Should You Own A Khaki Cotton Suit?

The fact that I’ve devoted an entire post to the khaki cotton suit should be your fairly obvious answer to the question above, but just in case it’s not clear — yes, I recommend owning a khaki cotton suit. However, there is a little bit of a caveat to that. I’ll clarify.

A khaki cotton suit should not be the first suit you buy. There are other suits better suited — sorry, not sorry — to being the initial trophies you add to your closet. If you approach building a classic menswear wardrobe methodically, you’ll want to start with a navy suit and a gray suit in a perennial, or “four season,” wool. These are the suits that will have you covered for pretty much anything at any time during any season.

Once you’ve covered the basics, then it’s time to start thinking seasonally.

What “thinking seasonally” means in a menswear context is fabric. Different fabrics are better suited — sorry, I can’t help myself — for different seasons. Fall and winter are for flannel, tweed, and cashmere. Spring and summer were made for hopsack, fresco, linen, and yes, cotton.

Flap pockets are a more conservative approach to jacket styling.

Simple styling playing off the brown earth tones.

A notch lapel is the best choice for a khaki cotton suit jacket or sport coat.

When considering which seasonal suits to add first, it’s best to think about when you like to (or find yourself needing to) dress up most often. For me, although I love spring and summer suiting, I have a real soft spot for colder weather tailoring, which means my next purchases were a tweed suit and a flannel suit. However, knowing I needed to have something for the spring and summer, a khaki cotton suit was next on my hit list. You can see some of my earliest posts featuring a khaki cotton suit to the right (if you’re on desktop) or below (if you’re on mobile.

But whether you’re a warm weather or cold weather tailoring guy, it’s my position that, again, if you’re building a classic menswear wardrobe methodically, that a khaki cotton suit should be the third, fourth, or fifth suit you add to your closet.

And here are four specific benefits to doing just that.

Benefits Of A Khaki Cotton Suit?

Now that we’ve established that a khaki cotton suit should find it’s way into your wardrobe at a relatively early stage, let’s answer the logical follow up question of why you need one by exploring four of the suit’s benefits.

Casual

Casual and suit aren’t two words you usually put together. It can seem a little oxymoronic to do so. However, there is quite a range of formality even within the realm of suits. Color makes a difference — darker appears more formal, lighter more casual — but fabric plays an important role as well. With a khaki cotton suit, you’ve got the lighter color and the more casual fabric, which gives it a more relaxed look and feel overall. Perfect for those who like the idea of wearing a suit, but not the idea of being overly formal.

Breathable

Cotton is a breathable fabric. And if you’re suiting up in warmer weather, breathable fabrics are the ones you want. Breathable doesn’t just mean that it’s allowing your body to breathe, it also means that air can flow freely through the fabric, which helps to keep you cool and dry. Combine that with a half-lined or unlined jacket and you’re golden. Be aware that cotton suiting does come in different weights. Choose a lighter weight to keep cooler.

Versatile

Khaki is a neutral color and, as such, it’s very easy to pair with a variety of different colors. In fact, you’d be hard-pressed to find a color that doesn’t work with khaki. Additionally, because of cotton’s more casual, relaxed, and maybe even a bit rugged appearance, a khaki cotton suit is extremely easy to dress down. I personally love wearing denim shirts and gingham shirts with it to play into that casualness a bit more. (Though, as you can see, I’ve chose to dress it up for this post.)

Strong Separates

Also related to a khaki cotton suit’s versatility is the fact that it is one of the easiest suits to break into separates. So not only are you getting a great standalone suit, but you’ve also got an amazing spring and summer sport coat as well as one of the best pair of year-round trousers you can find.

Two things to note if you’re considering a khaki cotton suit and do want to break it into separates. As the jacket alone is more casual, I would consider styling it with patch pockets. Although I’m wearing the full suit with flap pockets here, I do have a sport coat with patch pockets. But there’s nothing saying you can’t wear it separately with flap pockets — I’ve done it.

And while I typically get my suit trousers with side adjusters, again, because it’s more casual and I like to wear the pants separately, I would go with belt loops — I also think a cotton suit with side adjusters looks just a bit odd.

But…

Although there are many benefits to a khaki cotton suit, there is one thing to be aware of. I wouldn’t call it a drawback, but cotton is a fabric that wrinkles easily. For me, it adds to the suit’s charm and signifies that you’re actually wearing your clothing. But I know that’s not going to be everyone’s cup of tea. Is there anything you can do? Yes, embrace the suck.

What Goes Well With A Khaki Suit?

Since a khaki cotton suit sits in that holy trinity of classic menswear colors — blue, gray, and brown — it’s an incredibly versatile suit that is easy to pair with a wide variety of shirts, ties, and shoes. Here’s a quick list and some picks to help inspire you.

Shirts

To be honest, the sky is pretty much the limit when it comes to the question of what shirt goes with a khaki suit. One of the best things about a khaki suit is that it’s versatility ensures that whether you want to dress it up or dress it down, well, you can do that and since khaki is a neutral color, almost any color will work with it.

When choosing a shirt to pair with a khaki suit, the primary consideration is how you intend to style and wear it. If you’re dressing it up, a poplin shirt is a great choice. White and light blue are no-brainer shirt choices but I also like pink paired with khaki as well — a wonderful nod to the lighter and brighter colors typical of the spring and summer.

Now, because as I mentioned above that a khaki cotton suit is a more “casual” suit option, that means you also have an opportunity to wear more casual shirts with it. Some of my favorites are denim and chambray as well as gingham.

Ties

Once again, because of the khaki cotton suit’s versatility in terms of color, there aren’t really any “bad” options for the common question of what tie goes with a khaki suit. You can play it safe with solids, be a little more preppy with stripes, or go wild with a bold pattern. It’s completely up to you!

The one thing that you should definitely pay attention to, however, is the fabric of the tie. Because cotton is a more casual fabric, your tie fabric should play well with it so you don’t create a clash. Shiny silks are most certainly out. Instead, opt for grenadine, a silk knit with a squared-off cotton, cotton, linen, or shantung.

Shoes

What shoes go with a khaki suit? Great question. To be honest, any style of shoe will do — Oxfords, derbies, penny loafers, suede loafers, tassel loafers, double monks, single monks, and even sneakers — it just depends on the overall vibe of your styling.

In terms of color, I prefer to stick to brown for my dress shoes and white or off-white for sneakers. Just don’t ever wear black shoes with a khaki cotton suit. The menswear police will find you wherever you are . . .

The He Spoke Style Khaki Cotton Suit

The most important part of any suit is the fabric and we’ve chosen one that is buttery soft with just a slight bit of give, which makes it great for traveling and will help (somewhat) with the inevitable wrinkling.

I’ve styled the jacket quite classically — two-button, notch lapel, flap pockets, double vent, and half-lined for added breathability. As mentioned above, if you plan to make use of the jacket as a separate — or simply plan to wear the suit more casually — I would highly recommend choosing patch pockets. Thankfully, each one of these details is customizable when ordering.

The trousers are done with belt loops rather than my usual side adjusters for two reasons. First, it’s more casual and second, it makes the trousers more versatile as a separate. I did stick with a two-inch cuff though, again, if more casual is what you’re after, you may consider a plain bottom instead for more of a classic effect.

My Styling

For this particular post, I decided to style the suit in a more dressed up manner. It was a somewhat unintentional throwback to one of the very first posts on the HSS website featuring a khaki cotton suit, published nearly 11 years to the day!

I’ve kept it very classic with a white poplin shirt, brown striped tie, and white pocket square. Rather than lace-ups, however, I decided on a pair of double monk straps. Some days you’re just feeling them, you know?

This would be a great look for any kind of spring or summer event, and would be particularly well-suited — here we go again… — for a spring or summer wedding whether you happen to be a groom or a guest.

The Bottom Line

A khaki cotton suit is a classic and versatile addition to any modern gentleman’s wardrobe. It shouldn’t be your first or second suit, but should definitely figure as a third, fourth, or fifth. Because of it’s more casual style due to the cotton fabric, it’s versatile and can be worn at a variety of occasions, from business to business casual to date nights and weddings. And don’t forget that not only do you have a great suit, but you’ve also got a perfect spring and summer sport coat and a workhorse pair of trousers.

Thanks, as always, for reading.

5 Tricks To Look Slimmer With Clothes 

If you’ve wondered how to look slimmer just with clothing, you’ve come to the right place.

To begin, I think it’s extremely important to state that nobody needs to be slim or skinny. All bodies are different and there’s absolutely nothing wrong with whatever shape or size you happen to be.

Yet, no matter who you are or what your body looks like, it’s likely that you may have some sort of insecurity with your body that can affect your confidence and how you present yourself to the world.

To be completely honest, body insecurity is something I’ve dealt with my entire life. Even though I have generally maintained a fairly slim physique — partly genetic, partly hard work and discipline — there are a couple areas of my body that I really don’t like and always try to hide, which is actually one of the reasons I love tailored clothing. More on that later.

At the end of the day, it’s all about feeling your best and if looking a little slimmer is going to help you have more confidence, well, let’s explore how to accomplish that simply with the clothing you wear and how you wear it.

In this post, I’ve rounded up five ways to use clothes to look slimmer. Let’s jump right in.

01

Wear Black

Wearing black clothing is one of the simplest and most effective ways to appear slimmer. Black clothing helps to create a streamlined silhouette. And it’s not magic, there’s actually a very good reason this works. Black absorbs light, which means that it hides shadows cast by bulges or extra weight and works to downplay contours of your body in areas that you might be feeling self-conscious about.

Additionally, black clothing really exaggerates what all clothing and well put together outfits should do — draw attention up from your body and frame your face. You can see this illustrated very clearly in the outfit I’m wearing above. Your personality is always the most important part of any outfit so anything you can do to help highlight that and focus on conversation and personal interactions is a huge win.

In short, wearing black is a stylishly simple way to look slimmer and feel more confident in your appearance.

02

Wear A Sport Coat

Another great way for guys to look slimmer with clothing is by wearing a sport coat. If the sport coat is well-made and well-tailored, the shoulders and slight narrowing of the waist can help create the illusion of a slimmer figure. It’s one of the reasons you’ll often hear people say that a great tailor will hide your imperfections. For example, a sport coat does a great job of hiding extra weight, especially in the chest. So if “man boobs” are an issue for you, this is a great way to mask that and be incredibly well-dressed!

Additionally, a sport coat has something else going for it in terms of slimming you down — the lapels. The lapels themselves create a vertical line that draws the eye up and down. This effect makes your appear not only slimmer, but taller and leaner as well.

03

Vertical Lines, Not Horizontal

While a sport coat or suit jacket’s lapels help create a sense of elongation, you can get even more literal (and effective) by incorporating vertical lines. In terms of men’s clothing that means we’re talking about pinstripes or chalk stripes. These vertical lines draw the eye up and down, lengthening your figure, slimming you down, and creating the illusion that you are taller.

On a personal note to that point, many people who only know me from the internet (or Instagram or YouTube) often think I am much taller than I actually am. Although I’d consider myself a normal height — 5’ 9” (180cm) — when I mention my height, I get lots of comments of the “wow, I thought you were over six feet” variety. Just goes to show that how you wear clothing can affect how people see you physically.

Now, if your goal is to appear slimmer, not all lines are created equal. In contrast to vertical lines, which draw your eye up and down, horizontal lines draw the eye side to side, making you appear wider. This happens because horizontal lines will emphasize the width of your frame.

One final thing to pay attention to is that the size and spacing of any vertical lines you’re wearing can have an effect on how slimming they appear. In general, the thinner and closer together the lines are, the more slimming they’ll be.

04

Get Rid Of Baggy Clothes

If you are self-conscious about your body shape, baggy clothing may seem like an easy answer to dealing with that. Although baggy and overly baggy clothing may seem like a great choice in terms of comfort and hiding the things, like extra weight or bulges, that you’re insecure about, the reality is that it only serves to exaggerate and make you look larger.

Although baggy clothing is currently, as of this writing, enjoying something of a resurgence in menswear, overly loose garments not only make you look larger, but they look unkempt. Without shape to the garment, there’s no structure or definition to your figure either.

Which is why from here you should proceed directly to tip number five…

05

Wear Clothes That Fit

One of the most important factors when discussing how to look slimmer with clothes is to wear clothing that actually fits you — and fits you well. This is crucial.

Properly fitting clothing will significantly enhance your appearance and will make you look slimmer by accentuating your natural form in the most positive way and hiding all of those things that may make you feel insecure about your body.

Think about someone wearing a suit jacket or sport coat that’s too tight. You see the button pulling. They look uncomfortable and you feel uncomfortable for them! Nothing worse than that. And to reference tip number four again, if something is too loose, you’ll look larger than you actually are and not very well put together.

I’m going to say this once: tight does not equal well-tailored. I think there is a prevalent and extremely common misconception that tailored clothing is uncomfortable. For every person who complains about such a thing or makes that pronouncement, I would wager that all of them are wearing clothing that is too tight.

Everything we offer in the HSS Shop and the fitting process you are guided through is designed to help you understand your body type so you are receiving clothing that fits you properly. When you wear clothing made that way, it instantly creates a more flattering — and slimmer — appearance.

The Bottom Line

The most important thing I hope you take away from this post is that it’s not just about looking slimmer, what we’re actually doing is trying to enhance and flatter our natural body shape and cultivate a sense of confidence and positive thoughts about your own body. Yes, clothing can be a powerful means of expressing yourself and your personal style, but it also has an incredible ability to increase your confidence and completely transform how you present yourself to the world.

Thanks, as always, for reading.

New Watches From NOMOS Glashütte That Are Seriously Fun 

The new Tangente 38 Date from NOMOS Glashütte is all about style, personality, and fun.

Have you ever seen that “men discussing” meme? There’s one related to watches that I think is really good.

Image via watch.memes

And, you know what? It’s funny because it’s true.

Now, listen, I’m passionate about watches. But I really hate the snobbery, elitism, pretentiousness, arrogance, condescension, self-importance, sense of superiority, smugness, and contempt for those less knowledgeable or not in “the club” that devotees of the watch world can sometimes engender.

That gets a big fat eye roll emoji from me.

Watches should be fun! They should reflect your personality. They should be something you love. That’s why you should buy a watch — not because you want to fit in with all the cool rich kids.

What is this, middle school?

In today’s post, we are taking a look at a new release from NOMOS Glashütte — the Tangente 38 Date: 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte — that really leans hard into that sense of joy, personality, and individuality that watch collecting should be all about. We’ll get in depth with the watches themselves and I’ll show you five ways I styled a few of the 31 different versions.

Let’s jump right in.

Play/Pause Video

The New NOMOS Tangente 38 Date

Just debuted at Watches & Wonders in Geneva, there is a lot to love about the new NOMOS Glashütte Tangente 38 date – 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte. It’s an iconic Nomos design. 38 mm is a pretty much a perfect case size, in my opinion. You’ve got the in-house manual winding DUW 4101 movement. And the price — $2,310 — is very accessible, in keeping with the NOMOS ethos of making phenomenal watches that are an incredible value.

What makes this version of the Tangente 38 special and unique and fun, is that it is available in 31 different color combinations meant to appeal to all different kinds of personalities. Some are incredibly bold — wild even! — while others are just a bit more straight down the fairway, but still with lots of character.

NOMOS Tangente Date 38 Schneesturm

NOMOS Tangente Date 38 Haifischgrau

NOMOS Tangente Date 38 Poporange

Let’s talk specs.

Like I said, it has a 38 mm stainless steel case — actually, it is 37.5 mm, if we’re being precise . . . this is a German brand, after all. It’s 6.8mm thick. With a lug to lug measurement of 47.7 mm. All that is to say is that this watch looks and feels great on the wrist.

On the dial, we’ve got that classic slender Tangente typography. The hands are rhodium-plated. There is a sub-seconds dial right above six o’clock and a large date window right at six o’clock.

Now, one thing I found slightly annoying is that there is no crown position to advance the date. However, there is a bit of a hack to help you change the date a little quicker. Once you advance the date by moving the hour hand past the 12 o’clock marker, all you have to do is reverse the hour hand to the nine o’clock position — you’ll hear a click — and then go three hours ahead to 12 again. Not ideal, in my opinion, but much quicker than going all the way around the dial again and again.

Even the experience of browsing the collection online is fun.

The case back is Sapphire Crystal Glass, revealing that beautiful in-house movement. At the bottom, you can see the name of the watch and that it is a limited edition of 175 — each of the 31 versions this watch is limited to 175 pieces. The number is an homage to the rich watchmaking history in Glashütte, which was founded over 175 years ago.

We’ve got a light gray woven strap — keeping it sporty. And if you want to know, the lug width is 19 mm. One note on the strap. I have a pretty small wrist — 6.5 inches — and prefer my watches to sit pretty close to my wrist. Not tight, but definitely not loose. I could have used one extra hole in the strap to get a perfect fit. Thankfully, that is something that’s easily fixed!

The Specs: NOMOS Tangente 38 Date

Here’s a quick and dirty look at all of the specifications for the NOMOS Tangente 38 Date.

The Basics

Brand: NOMOS Glashütte

Model: Tangente 38 Date: 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte

Reference Number: 179.S24

Diameter: 37.5 mm

Thickness: 6.8 mm

Lug-to-lug: 47.7 mm

Case Material: Stainless steel, bipartite sapphire crystal glass back

Dial Color: 31 color combinations

Hands: Rhodium-plated

Lume: No

Water Resistance: 3 atm (splash-proof)

Strap/Bracelet: Textile strap dark gray, woven, waterproof

The Movement

Caliber: NOMOS DUW 4101 (adjusted according to chronometer values)

Functions: Hours, minutes, sub-seconds, date

Diameter: 32.1 mm

Height: 2.8 mm

Power Reserve: Up to 42 hours

Winding: Manual

Jewels: 23

Pricing & Availability

Price: $2,310 USD

Limited Edition & Engraving: Each of the 31 versions is limited to 175 pieces; Limited Edition Tangente – 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte Schneesturm 1/175

Availability: As of this post, all of the watches are currently sold out on the NOMOS Glashütte website. Those interested are encouraged to use the NOMOS Retailer Locator to find a boutique or authorized dealer near you.

How I Styled The NOMOS Tangente 38 Date

As mentioned, the NOMOS Tangente 38 Date comes in 31 versions or color combinations — something for every kind of style and personality. For me, because I consider my style to be classic with a modern sensibility, I’ve chosen these three versions to style in this post:

Haifischgrau

Sleek, minimal, and understated. While the majority of the 31 watches in this collection are quite colorful, I was pleased to find one that didn’t call too much attention to itself. I generally prefer stuff you can file under IYKYK. It’s also a testament to NOMOS’s claim that there’s a watch in this collection for every type of personality and stye.

Schneesturm

Another quite “tame” version sporting a cream dial, black outer ring, and ice blue sub-seconds dial. The Schneesturm is very much in my style wheelhouse and is perhaps one of the most versatile in the entire collection.

Poporange

Despite being quite conservative in my tastes in general, I’m not above something a little statement-making from time to time. I selected this watch with summer in mind. And as I’ve been wearing a lot of black and white in the warmer months — see the third outfit below — the dark orange dial and bright orange sub-seconds dial provides the perfect little pop of color and interest.

Outfit 1

For the first outfit, I’m starting off with a mostly monochromatic business casual look. I’ve got on a dark denim button down shirt, navy blue cotton trousers — don’t freak out, not wearing a belt was a conscious decision — suede Koio Capris and the NOMOS Date 38 Haifischgrau for just a bit of contrast.

Without the jacket, this is a good standalone business casual look, but it you did want to dress it up a bit (as I did) I would reach for a light gray hopsack sport coat. It’s got a really nice texture as well as a more casual feel. The patch pockets make it more relaxed as well. And the color of the jacket ties into both the sneakers and the watch quite nicely.

Outfit 2

Up next we’ve got something similar, but a little more relaxed. Up top is a gray cotton pique button up shirt, which I’ve paired with the same navy blue cotton trousers from look number one. Same suede sneakers as well. And for this look, I’m going with NOMOS Tangente 38 Date Schneesturm.

Having spent some time with these watches now, I really think that it is a great watch for someone who has a sportier business casual style or a style that leans a bit more towards the casual side. And be sure to stay tuned until outfit five to see what super casual looks like on me . . .

Outfit 3

Okay, so this is pretty much what I would call my summer uniform — simple, chic, and elevated. Up top the shirt is by Todd Snyder, part of the new spring summer collection. It’s light and breathable and I really the looser fit.

I’ve paired that with a pair of black linen trousers — really my favorite pair of warm weather trousers over the past couple of years. Jacques Marie Mage sunglasses, ostrich Belgians, and the NOMOS Tangente 38 Date Poporange to complete the look.

I’ve been loving the simplicity of black and white clothing for a while now. It’s a simple foundation that you can do a lot with and it makes it really easy to throw in a fun and unique burst of color, like we’ve got with the watch.

Outfit 4

Well, here’s a spring and summer suit if I’ve ever seen one. This is our terracotta hopsack — check out that fabric, look how cool that is, the texture, the white flecks — I’m going to call this the suit of the summer.

Lots of ways to style it, obviously. Here, keeping it casual with a cream t-shirt, suede sneakers, sunglasses, and Tangente 38 Date Haifischgrau.

You know, at first I didn’t think I would be able to style these watches with a suit without changing the strap, but I wanted to challenge myself and I think the more casually cool outfit styling here, the color of the suit, paired with this particular watch works. You can let me know if you disagree.

Outfit 5

Maybe a little bit of a shock for you, but this is what I wear on the weekends! I bought this North Face fleece for a ski trip back in March, but I love it so much I find myself wearing it on most chillier mornings when I head out to the gym before the sun comes up.

(And I wear sweatpants too…)

But for this look I’ve got it paired with a cream t-shirt. It’s by Buck Mason — nicest t-shirt I’ve ever worn. Light blue jeans are classic Levi’s 501s — I did mention I’ve been enjoying a little bit of a looser fit. Navy baseball cap. Cream socks. Suede sneakers really getting a workout in this post. And the Tangente Date 38 Schneesturm.

Simple. Casual. Weekend. Great watch. Don’t really have to do much more than that.

The Bottom Line

In conclusion, the NOMOS Tangente 38 Date embodies the true spirit of what it means to be into watches and watch collecting. In case you can’t remember what those things are, they’re joy, personality, and individuality.

With its 31 different versions and color combinations, the new Tangente 38 Date is meant to cater to a variety of approaches to style and personalities.

Remember, watches are more than just practical things you wear on your wrist — they’re extensions of your personality. So, choose one that resonates with you, not just because it’s the unattainable it-watch.

Thanks, as always, for reading.

How To Become A Man Of Style At Home 

One of my favorite quotes in the world is from Miles Davis: “For me, music and life are all about style.”

Pursuing, expressing, and appreciating style is one of my greatest joys in life. And while a lot of this happens out in the real world – engaging with others away from home – that doesn’t mean it should stop inside my home.

On the contrary, as the single place I spend most of my time, becoming a man of style at home is arguably more important to me than how I express my style to the outside world.

Jazz trumpeter Miles Davis.

By creating a home where you can live with style, you not only solidify stylistic routine and behaviors, but – most importantly – you create a haven that’s full of your own personal, curated style – one that tells the story of your life – that can be enjoyed at any time, uninterrupted by the fickle and uncooperative nature of the outside world.

(Of course, for those of us with partners or roommates, creating a home with style is a “team sport”, but that doesn’t make it any less important!)

Your home should have areas that make you smile; feel inspired; feel proud; see beauty.

And while, just like with fashion, the way I curate my personal style at home will look different than your unique approach, I think there are a few guiding principles to get you started.

It starts with intention

You have to care. That’s the number one rule about becoming a man of style at home – it can’t be phoned in or delegated. It takes time, energy, thought and effort. But it’s an immensely worthy investment and one that will pay you back handsomely by turning everyday moments at home into something exceptional.

We’ve all been to those homes. The ones that look nice on the surface, but there’s nothing deeper than surface-level. These are the homes where the interior designer has made all the decisions, and, in doing so, has watered down all character and uniqueness; where the artwork hanging on the walls is also hanging on the walls in thousands of other homes; and where a certainly too-expensive vase has no story to tell to justify the space it takes up.

On the other side of the equation, we’ve also been to homes that are warm and welcoming – just without any sense of curation or attempt to create beauty. Sure, to some, beauty is a luxury – not a necessity – but I subscribe to the Robin Williams philosophy from “Dead Poets Society”: “poetry, beauty, romance, love . . . these are what we stay alive for,” and that includes expressing beauty and style through your home.

And while money certainly plays a factor into the size of the home you have and the types of things you fill it with, there are countless vintage, white elephant and resale shops with a plethora of beautiful and unique art, furniture and décor to express style within any budget.

You just have to care.

Showcase your interests in a genuine and authentic way

A home is also a canvas – the one place in the world where you can, without compromise or restraint, truly lean into all that you love in the world. Don’t miss this opportunity!

As a born and raised proud Chicagoan, my home is filled with photos of the city. Even better, they’re photos I took. Am I trained photographer? Nope. Are they the best photos that exist of the city? Absolutely not. But in displaying them, I not only celebrate my city, but also showcase a budding hobby. They’re unique in the world and they come with a story to tell.

I’m also extremely fortunate to have an artist for a godfather and he’s provided a bounty of art to grace my walls and my tabletops. His style is edgy, abstract and contemporary, and his pieces – intermixed with my black and white photos of Chicago – combine to create a dynamic fabric of expression that’s uniquely mine.

In a similar vein, my favorite aesthetic is Ralph Lauren’s, a designer as comfortable as any at juxtaposing design styles: the elegant with the rugged and the classic with the modern; at once global yet proudly American. My home seeks to reflect that, too, where an American flags leans against a bar cart filled with spirits from across the world and where photos of Frank Sinatra and the Seagram’s building share space with watercolors from Barcelona and Paris.

This is not to say your home should display photos of Chicago, my godfather’s art, or reflect a Ralph Lauren aesthetic – those are my interests. Think about yours and celebrate them proudly.

Lean into your hobbies

In a similar vein, your home should make it effortless to lean into your hobbies. Mine are cooking, reading, gardening, and writing (thanks, He Spoke Style!).

My kitchen is stocked with the right utensils, a very deep spice cabinet, and lots of counter space. I have everything I need to pretend I’m Jeremy Allen White from “The Bear” to properly mise en place with my Japanese chef knives, get the perfect sear on short ribs or chicken thighs in a Le Creuset Dutch oven, and plate my meals as if preparing service in a Michelin-starred restaurant.

When I read, it’s in my Eames chair, one that I melt into as much physically as I emotionally melt into the scintillating prose from the book I’m reading – with a small side table that has just enough room for my coffee (or cocktail, depending on the hour).

And although I live in the heart of Chicago, I take every opportunity to curate a garden each year, celebrating each new shoot or bloom as I create a little oasis among the asphalt that allows me to grab a bottle of French rose, turn on “Crepuscolo Sul Mare,” and pretend I’m in the Mediterranean.

Set the mood

On that note, whatever season it is and whatever you’re doing, you’ve got to set the mood. Don’t spoil the joy of celebrating your interests and embracing your hobbies with an atmosphere that feels like a doctor’s office (see overhead lighting) or a garage sale (you’ve got to keep your place tidy).

Lamps and candles are your best friend in this regard. They add warmth and glow to any room – and with the right candle, can make your place feel like the swanky lobby of an elegant hotel in London or Singapore. My favorite candles have complex scents that feel at once unique yet familiar and lean into stronger notes like cedar, frankincense, and vetiver. A few of my go-to candles these days are Ski House by LAFCO, Hinoki Fantome by Boy Smells, and Black Rose & Oud by Salt & Stone (and, for the holidays, Ralph Lauren’s Classic Holiday Candle).

While we’re on this subject, let’s talk about clutter. It doesn’t matter how interesting the art on your walls is or that your guitar or record collection is incredibly rare if your place is filled with disorganization and mess. This is not to say that it shouldn’t look lived in – a sterile home that feels like a museum isn’t any better – but this is a plea to ensure everything has a place.

As a father of two under five, it’d be extremely easy to let the kids’ “stuff” encroach on every inch of the house, but my wife and I make it a point to have specific places where everything goes at the end of the day: a basket (or two, in our case) for all the toys, a shelf with drawers for their craft supplies, and hooks in the hallway for all their layers and jackets.

If you have a bunch of returns collecting by the front door, put them in a bag discretely behind a chair. Go through your mail, toss the junk and put the rest in a specific place (and no, the specific place should not be your kitchen island). Keeping your home tidy and free of unnecessary mess will not only create a calmer space, but a more stylish one, too.

It’s okay to indulge (within reason)

There’s also one extravagant element I’ve now made a “must” for any home I live in (to my wife’s chagrin as we currently search for our “forever home”): a wood-burning fireplace. While this should – on any reasonable man’s list – sit on the “nice to haves”, for me – a very sensory person who lives in Chicago – it’s my one extreme indulgence.

With the city’s capricious weather (and a wonderful summer season that’s sadly far too short), the fireplace in our current home gets used nearly 8 months of the year, its comforting smell enveloping the living room, its flickering flames dancing on the wood floor, and its familiar snap, crackle and pop soundtrack all coming together to create a little cozy hamlet in the middle of our busy urban neighborhood.

I realize how incredibly fortunate I am to have such an unnecessary thing on my “must have” list, but life is short and filled with things you can’t control, so I fully support finding something that brings you an overwhelming amount of joy and leaning into it (as long as you appreciate how blessed you are to indulge in said extravagance).

While fireplaces might not be your thing, I encourage you to find your own indulgence – a commercial grade cooking range, a home with a rooftop patio, an espresso machine whose price makes you blush – that can transform the mundane of the everyday to the exceptional right there within your home.

Can you host others as easily as yourself?

“No man is an island” and so while it’s important for your home to be a personal sanctuary, it should also allow you to entertain others to a good time. Life can be at its best when shared, and if you’ve curated your home to expertly suit your lifestyle, it goes to reason that your home can become even better when filled with those closest to you.

If cocktails are your thing, have a go-to recipe or two memorized (along with the right tools to serve the perfect version). Be able to offer food (more than just chips and dip) by having a collection of a few trays and platters you can use for charcuterie or other unique bites. I’m also a big believer that it’s wise to always have bottle of bubbly (as well as some light beers) chilling in your fridge as you never know what the day (or evening) will bring.

And those other principles in this article go a long way toward being a good host in your space as well. A tidy home makes getting ready for company a cinch. Being able to set the mood works just as well for one as it does for a crowd. And a home full of your life’s interests and hobbies is a unique, personal showcase – one that’s fun to take your guests through (as long as they’re curious and the tour is done humbly).

Just promise me that while you’re explaining that special chair or art piece in your house, you leave out the price tag and focus instead on the story behind it and what it means to you.

The Bottom Line

“Love how you live in the moments that matter.” No, this beautiful phrase isn’t another quote from Miles Davis, but rather the mission statement from Crate & Barrel. And despite its prosaic commercial provenance, I absolutely love the sentiment it evokes, encapsulating all the principles this article lays out in eight pithy words.

Being intentional. Celebrating your interests and empowering your hobbies. Creating a mood that’s enjoyable for you as well as others. Indulging (within reason).

All of these principles ultimately seek to work together in harmony to create a home where you love how you live in the moments that matter.

A home you’re proud of. A home that can make any day – in any season, at any time – be your favorite place to be.

Thanks for reading.

The Solaro Suit: Summer’s Most Interesting & Unique Fabric 

Of all the different types of suits that are appropriate for summer, a Solaro suit is one of the most unique.

To put it another way, if you are a devoted student of men’s style, then a Solaro suit is like graduate-level menswear. You’ve kind of got to be a bit of a menswear nerd to love, understand, and honestly “get” it, but it’s such a singular piece that if you do consider yourself a part of the men’s style tribe — or are simply looking to deepen your knowledge of classic menswear — a Solaro suit is a suit that you really need to get to know.

Here’s a quick overview of what we’ll be covering in this post:

  • The history of Solaro suits.
  • What is a Solaro fabric?
  • How to wear a Solaro suit.
  • A detailed look at the He Spoke Style Solaro suit.

Let’s get right to it!

What Is The History Of Solaro Suits?

The history of Solaro, as a fabric, is quite fascinating and is actually a story of innovation. The fabric was conceived during the early 20th century, an era marked by significant technical advancements across a variety of fields.

Among these, Solaro distinguished itself and can rightly be classified as one of the original technical fabrics. Unlike other materials that were created for general use, Solaro was designed with a specific use-case in mind — to safeguard British soldiers stationed in tropical climates from the harmful effects of UV radiation.

This was of particular importance for the British military, who found their traditional uniforms ill-suited — sorry, not sorry, for the pun — for warm and oppressive tropical climates. So the development of Solaro was not only a technical innovation but also a practical solution to a very real problem.

Interestingly, although Solaro was developed with a very specific purpose and intent, the actual scientific validity of its UV-protective qualities has been questioned in recent years. While the intention behind its creation was certainly noble and necessary, the actual scientific basis may not hold up under modern scrutiny.

What Is A Solaro Fabric?

While it might not actually do what it was intended to do, that doesn’t change the fact that Solaro is still a very cool and interesting fabric known for its unique texture and color effect. This is achieved by a specific weaving technique that combines two different colored yarns.

The fabric generally appears brownish or earth-toned from a distance, but upon closer inspection, the underlying brick red yarn becomes visible. As always, my favorite kinds of detail. This gives the fabric a subtle yet captivating iridescence depending on how it the sun hits it. While the brown/orange version of the fabric is perhaps the most popular, it can also be found in greens and blues.

The name “Solaro” is patented by Smith Woolens, now known as Harrison’s. As such, other manufacturers who produce similar fabrics cannot use the name “Solaro”, despite the similarity in appearance and texture. This has led to a variety of Solaro-like fabrics in the market, often distinguished by different names but basically offering the same distinctive characteristics as the original Solaro fabric. More on that when I discuss our “Solaro” suit later on in the post.

How Do You Wear A Solaro Suit?

Any way you look at it, a Solaro suit is a standout piece. It’s singular. It’s unique. It makes a statement. And it’s a conversation starter. And with any kind of statement piece, the best and easiest way to approach styling it — and I say this all the time — is to let it be the star, which means to keep the rest of the outfit simple.

Despite its iridescent quality, when you are considering how to style a Solaro suit, it’s best to think of it as just a simple brown suit. Honestly, contemplating what to pair with a fabric that is sometimes orange, sometimes, green-ish, and sometimes a combination of both can play weird tricks on your mind (and be quite frustrating). However, approaching it as you would a brown suit suddenly makes it that much more approachable.

In this particular post, you can see that I’ve really leaned into the earthiness of the suit. A white shirt provides a solid foundation and an Army green silk knit tie complements the fabric and appears as something of an anchor. My use of earth tones continues with the belt and double monks — a little bit of a nod to the suit’s perceived “Italian”-ness — and a yellow pocket square. Finally, a pair of tortoise sunglasses with a translucent lens pairs well with the fabric’s playfulness.

To further illustrate how to approach a Solaro suit as a brown suit, check out the video below.

The He Spoke Style “Solaro” Suit

If you’ve noticed the scare quotes in this section’s heading, that’s because our version of the suit is not cut from the patent-holding Smith Woolens Harrison Solaro fabric. The fabric we’ve chosen is from Standeven, which looks exactly the same, and costs a whole lot less — about half the price of “true” Solaro.

So, straight up, if you want the “brand name,” I’d recommend looking elsewhere, but if you’re looking to get into a “Solaro” suit at a very reasonable price point, this one’s for you.

I’ve decided to style the garment very simply with two buttons, a notch lapel, and flap pockets. However, if you’d like to emulate one of the most famous Solaro suit wearers, L’Avvocato himself Gianni Agnelli, be sure to update your pocket styling to jetted pockets. The jacket is also half-lined with a double vent.

For the trousers, I’ve gone with a single reverse pleat and a two-inch cuff, as is my habit. Instead of my usual side adjusters, I’ve opted for belt loops instead. Typically, I’ll do this when I intend to wear the trousers more casually as a separate but that wasn’t the case here. Because of the — let’s just say it — weirdness of the fabric, I like breaking it up with the look and texture of a leather belt. It adds an additional layer when styling it that I really like.

But, as always, in the He Spoke Style Shop you are able to customize any detail you want to suit your personal style preferences.

The Bottom Line

A Solaro suit is one of the most interesting and unique additions to a classic menswear summer wardrobe. It’s got all of the good stuff — a great origin story, a very cool look, and a sort of menswear “street cred” all working together. While it may not provide the UV protection it was originally designed for, it’s unique color effect and texture make it a truly standout piece.

Thanks, as always, for reading.

The Ultimate Guide To The Three-Piece Suit 

Are three-piece suits still in style?

“…To riding your bike, mid-day past the three-piece suits!” That’s a line from “La Vie Boheme,” a song in Jonathan Larson’s musical “Rent*.”* His character, photographer and wannabe documentarian Mark, is actually mocking the Wall Street crowd sweating in suits while he breezes by. Perhaps it is a product of the 90s, but a full three-piece suit has steadily fallen from grace. And that’s a crying shame.

The truth is, the three-piece suit is a fantastically useful garment deserving of a place in the modern man’s wardrobe.

Can we resurrect it? I think so. Let’s dig into our ultimate three-piece suit guide.

What Goes Into a Three-Piece Suit?

The discerning reader will note a ‘three-piece suit’ does indeed contain three parts: a jacket, a vest (or waistcoat, if you’d like to call it), and a pair of trousers. Just as with any two-piece suit, all components should be of matching cloth and pattern. Windowpane suit + solid vest ≠ a three-piece suit. That’s just a suit with an odd vest. While that isn’t necessarily a bad thing, a three-piece suit it is not.

Other than having all parts having the same cloth, you’ve got flexibility on each piece.

Jackets can be single or double-breasted, but personally I’d go for single-breasted. A double-breasted model is already effectively a second layer of fabric, so a vest is a bit overkill. The coat can have peaked or notched lapels. While this is personal preference, I’ll offer a few suggestions.

  1. First, consider the scale of formality. A more formal suit is perhaps best suited — ahem — to peaked lapels, while a standard notch works better, at least in my opinion, for most daywear situations.
  2. Second, the fabric. A charcoal flannel suit would look excellent with full-bellied peak lapels and a double breasted waistcoat. The same might not be said for sand-shaded cotton.
  3. Third, and kind of hybrid of the first two, consider how often this will be worn as a full three-piece.

The vest itself can be single or double-breasted. Traditionally, a single-breasted vest has six buttons, with the bottom one left unbuttoned for comfort when seated. Double-breasted vests usually, but not always, have six buttons as well. Vests traditionally paired with tuxedos can have a deep placket and only four buttons. Some of this look has made its way into modern business wear, and I’m not sure how much I like it.

While vests can have lapels (even peaked ones) themselves, I’m less inclined to go for them. In my view, a lapel-less vest sits cleaner and better complements the outfit.

Trousers, of course, function exactly the same as a two-piece suit. Flat front. Single or double pleat. Cuffs or no cuffs. It’s up to you!

Where Did Three-Piece Suits Come From?

Good question. While it’s difficult to nail down an exact time and place, October 7, 1666 is a good start. England had lopped the head off of a King in 1649 and lived under Parliamentary rule (and without Christmas) for about a decade, only to decide they wanted a King after all. That was the affable Charles Stuart, son of the previous King, who ascended the throne as Charles II in 1661.

Portrait of Charles Edward Stuart (1720–1788) after E. Gill, c.1745–6. Image via.

During the Interregnum, the young Charles had been exiled to France under the protection of the excellently-coifed and fabulously-dressed Louis XIV — The Sun King. However, the fops the French court decked out in doublet and hose just didn’t suit him. Nor did it suit his subjects when he returned as King.

But, the decision to adopt a new style literally overnight might just have been political. A series of unfortunate events — War in the Caribbean, a plague, and a Great Fire in London — made for a rocky start to the reign. On top of that, English Protestants were particularly distrustful of anything Catholic-and anything remotely French.

Charles recognized this and sought to disassociate himself from the French Court and their ostentatious manner of dress. And so, as the diarist and MP Samuel Pepys wrote:

Yesterday in Council the King declared his resolution to introduce a manner of dress which shall never go out of fashion. It will be a waistcoat, which, I don’t know how, will teach the nobility a sense of economy, and that will do them good.

Samuel Pepys

This new ‘manner of dress’ was a longer vest made of black fabric, with a ruffled white shirt underneath. So, very briefly, how did we get from long vests to where we are today?

The famous statue of George Bryan “Beau” Brummell, an arbiter of fashion in Regency England at the entrance of Piccadilly Arcade in Mayfair.

The early 19th century period of the Regency, perhaps best embodied by legendary dandy Beau Brummel, frequently saw a shorter waistcoat of sorts with a longer jacket worn open. Trousers, instead of knee breeches and stockings, became fashionable-although the legs were worn inside of boots.

Victorian dress saw trousers fall outside the boots, and formal daywear with a vest became close to what today we’d recognize as kind of white/black tie hybrid. The jacket was called a ‘frock coat.’ Vests could be either single or double-breasted; the latter being more formal, just as today. The Victorians also introduced a more casual ‘lounge’ suit. Made of a rougher fabric, it’s pretty much what a full tweed suit looks like today.

The Edwardian age saw the jackets for daywear get a little shorter and the bottom button on the vests left unbuttoned at Court (perhaps so as to not remind their liege lord of his ever-expanding waistline). Casual, lounge suiting may included a vest as well. “Downton Abbey” fans may recognize this vest as a component of shooting gear.

The 1920s and 30s featured variations on the vest in both single and double-breasted models, but by the 1940s the vest had begun to fall out of favor. We’ll cover that in a minute.

The 1970s saw a brief, wondrous return of the three-piece suit as disco culture permeated the United States, but after a flash of brilliance the multi-colored light faded there too.

The 80s did see some three-piece suits, particularly in professions like law and banking — as our narrator Mark keenly observed. But, by, the 1990s, the three-piece suit (and suits in general) began to fade.

Why did it happen? And, can we get it back?

Why Did Men Stop Wearing Three-Piece Suits?

I’ll paint with a broad brush here, but bear with me.

First, raw materials, including textiles, became far more scarce in the early part of the 20th century. Two World Wars required wool, cotton, and silks for the collective effort. Many men marched to battle rather than the office and such extravagances couldn’t be justified. When men returned home from the fight, many countries were still subject to rationing. Even with the slow creep toward normalcy, the preference for the three-piece suit of yesteryear didn’t return.

Second, a change in consumer behavior. The cost-conscious customer began to demand goods with expediency and volume rather than focus on quality and fit. Synthetic polyesters overtook natural materials. A suit that once took a month or more to make could be picked up at the local department store in an hour. At the risk of stating the obvious, it’s more costly, labor-wise, to produce a three-piece suit than a two-piece, so manufacturers began to produce fewer.

Jimi Hendrix performing live on stage in 1969. Image via.

Third, while (literal) volumes have been written on counterculture and casual dress, suffice it (for now) to say the population, as a whole, simply dresses far more casually than it did 50 or 60 years ago. The three-piece is suit is far from the only casualty.

Fourth is what I’ll argue is a less personal work environment in traditionally more sober industries. Take finance and banking, for example. Before the rise of the personal computer, finance was, by and large, an intimate human interaction. You’d meet with a personal banker or financial advisor, usually in an office, and discuss your finances, develop a long-term investment strategy, retirement plan, etc. This required a serious outfit from both parties to discuss it.

But, in recent decades, as the industry has shifted from the power suit to the Power Mac (for those who remember) and into the world of smartphones, chatbots, an AI-assisted investing, this world increasingly operates behind a screen. Trades are completed with the push of a button. It’s faster than ever before. The high finance uniform is no longer coat and tie — it’s an OCBD, khaki pants, and a puffer vest.

What are the Benefits of a Three-Piece Suit

Reading this rather stark analysis might imply the three-piece suit has gone the way of the dodo. But, I don’t think so. This not-so-humble garment still packs a heavy sartorial punch.

First, it’s still highly versatile garment. If you buy one in a fabric and color — say, navy wool — the possibilities are limitless. There are few situations you’d normally wear a two-piece suit where you couldn’t wear a three-piece one. But, you don’t have to wear all three parts at once. Without the waistcoat, you’ve got a perfectly good two-piece suit.

Add the vest, though, and it’s one more weapon in your style arsenal. Mix and match a patterned waistcoat and solid jacket for a slightly dandy look, if that’s your vibe. Or, add some depth to an outfit pairing a solid vest and patterned coat.

You can also wear the vest on its own. In the summer, it’s a great substitute when it’s just too hot for a jacket. In cooler or in-between temps, try a tweed or a flannel as a little ‘something’ different.

In an office setting, it’s supremely versatile. If, in the winter, the heat is cranked up, a sweater can get a little stifling. A vest offers a little more coverage. Speaking of coverage — if I worked in formal office, I’d find it a little annoying to get up and put on a jacket to greet a client, only to take it off again. A waistcoat is a good middle ground.

Finally, a three-piece suit is definitely something out of the norm today. And that’s exactly why I believe you should have one.

When Is It Your Best Bet To Wear A Three-Piece Suit?

Honestly? Wear one whenever you like. But, here are a couple guidelines, in my opinion, on the best places to wear a three-piece suit.

Formal events and gatherings are great, and weddings are probably the best use case. You wear the full getup during the ceremony then take the jacket off when you hit the dance floor.

Or, if you’d like to channel your inner Nick Charles and shake your martinis to waltz time, a pinstripe model in the back of a wood-paneled bar is absolutely the way to go.

Professional jobs, law and legislative in particular, are also perfectly acceptable situations. As referenced earlier, a vest is a little more formal than just a shirt, especially if you’ll be seated during a meeting in your office and don’t want to rumple a jacket.

In the same vein, if you’re a trial attorney, you may consider wearing one in the courtroom. In my view, it shows a certain reverence and respect for the law, your client, and judge and/or jury.

Ultimately, a three-piece suit shows you’re confident and in control. However, it’s not always appropriate.

In this modern age, I’d probably skip a three-piece suit on a first date. Unless the date is to, say, the opera.

I would also avoid a three-piece suit in casual office settings. You may consider a waistcoat separate, but it’s a more stylishly adventurous option.

Our Favorite Three-Piece Suits

Let’s take a look at just a few of our all-time favorite three-piece suits.

The Grey Tweed Three-Piece Suit

If you’ve got a more urban, sophisticated style, grey tweed is a great place to start for a more interesting three-piece suit. Yes, you can wear the full ensemble to most any work environment. The textured fabric gives off a less formal touch perhaps more line with today’s business casual-forward offices. Speaking of business casual, mix and match the jacket or trousers with most any blue tone for a more interesting menswear ‘uniform.’ Or, dress it down with jeans and some wingtip dress boots or shell cordovan loafers.

The Brown Donegal Tweed

For a more ‘casual’, country-style three piece, a brown Donegal is also an excellent choice. Or, you can make a little more ‘academic’ and channel your inner ivory tower professor with some horn-rimmed spectacles. In a modern environment, it’s perhaps the sturdier option to pair with denim and odd flannel trousers-especially in cream, a personal favorite here. Any way you choose to wear it, this cloth utilizes a range of shades to embrace embraces warmth, texture, and depth.

The Nick Charles

An all-business look here channeling The Thin Man protagonist himself. A pinstripe suit, in my view, shouldn’t be your first, second, or third suit. I’ve found them in a little harder to break up into separates. But, if you enjoy sea bass and make sure your dry martinis are shaken to waltz time, this is how to do it.

I particularly like two things about this suit. First, the color is dark enough to be rather formal, but not so dark you can’t see the contrast in the stripe. And, speaking of the stripe, this is a great width to look for when doing a stripe-on-stripe look.

The Bottom Line

I think the formality of a three-piece is a sort of middle finger to those who have thrown in the towel and come to accept the steady decline of dress and appearance. If you’re the person who walks down the street and wonders, perhaps a little too openly, why everyone is dressed like crap, a three-piece is exactly what you need.

It is a point of pride for you. You have carefully considered the how and the why something sartorial works for you. You understand the power of dressing well. What that means for you, as a person, and what it means for those around you.

Thanks for reading.

5 Stylish Sneakers We’re Loving Right Now 

Let’s take a close look at our favorite men’s sneakers right now.

It’s that first unseasonably warm day of spring and you find yourself on a patio, mid-afternoon, with good friends, no obligations, and a refreshing gin and tonic in hand. What’s on your feet? Stylish sneakers that are perfectly paired with your effortlessly cool, casual attire. Can you picture it? I bet you can!

Shoes get noticed. Shoes can make the outfit. The flip side is that the wrong pair of shoes can wreck even the hippest threads. The right pair of shoes allow you to walk into any situation with the confidence that you can handle it. They allow you to float across social settings. Choosing the right sneakers is critical to completing your summer wardrobe.

So, it is sneaker weather again and here are the five pairs that we’re loving right now.

01

Koio Capri Triple White

Looking for the cleanest of all clean looks? The Koio Capri Triple White leather sneaker may be exactly what you are looking for. These beautiful sneakers are handcrafted with the finest materials in Tuscany, Italy. They are solid white (triple white even!) and take the cake in the minimalist aesthetic category.

The Capri Triple Whites are constructed from 100-percent full grain Italian leather and feature hand-painted accents. This is an unbelievable detail that showcases just how much time and attention goes into crafting this shoe.

An added bonus is the focus on sustainability with Koio products. While made of leather, much of the material used in the shoe is made from recycled materials. According to Koio, even up to 40-percent of the rubber sole of the shoe is made of recycled materials. This makes the Capri sneaker not only the freshest option for summertime attire, it is also one the most environmentally sound.

02

Grant Stone Coast Sneaker

One of the advantages of the modern sneaker is that when it is executed properly, it can effortlessly be dressed up and down flexing to whatever environment you might find yourself in. The Grant Stone Coast Butter Suede sneaker is a perfect example of a versatile pair of shoes that can take you right from the late afternoon staff meeting across the street to happy hour with friends.

These sneakers, in their muted color and textured suede appearance, make it easy to pair with virtually anything in your closet. They will look right at home with denim jeans or compliment a more business casual look with a hopsack suit or chinos and a blazer. Suede shoes will add a pop or texture to your footwear lineup. They are both elegant and casual and that is a combination that is highly sought after in the warmer months.

03

Wolf And Shepherd Victory Crossover Trainer

The Crossover Victory Trainer is perhaps the most elegant sneaker built for the active, day-to-day life I believe I have ever come across. Designed for both comfort and style, this shoe will integrate seamlessly into your existing casual wardrobe.

The design is a bit more in the realm of activewear and sporty, yet the carefully curated color combinations lend an air of sophistication that is not often replicated within the sneaker world.

These shoes are extremely breathable and lightweight, due in large part to the use of a foam injected scuba lining and mesh uppers. The full grain leather trimming elevates these sneakers beyond just typical tennis shoes.

Aesthetically, these sneakers walk a delicate balance between athletic and classy and, frankly, they pull it off well! The detailed accents such as a rich brown leather tongue accentuate the classic elements of the shoe while the sole and lacing harken to more sporty looks. Overall, this is a great hybrid sneaker suitable for nearly any casual occasion.

04

New Balance 9060

With the New Balance 9060, we step firmly into the world of more traditional athletic sneakers. This shoe has a classic heritage and, honestly, should be a part of everyman’s shoe collection. Available in a variety of colorways, the 9060 has a singular purpose: your comfort.

New Balance has made an art out of providing comfort in sneakers using a variety of cushioned materials and signature supports. Comfort isn’t the only thing the 9060s bring to the table. They are also downright retro at heart and, when styled correctly, will certainly make you stand out from the crowd.

The available color options provide something for everyone. There are options in nice, subtle neutral colors as well as the bolder blues and purples. Make these shoes your weekend companions and you’ll be the hippest guy at the hardware store on Saturday mornings.

05

Beckett Simonon Morgen Trainers

Steering back toward a more European vibe, the Beckett Simonon Morgen Trainers give off sleek, minimalist vibes with a twist of the soccer pitch. The simple blue and white color combo is as modern classic as it gets.

These are a low cut sneaker making them ideal for warm weather. The quality materials that are used ensure that these will age well and be around in your closet for a good while. One point in the sustainability column! Also, the leather on these shoes is sourced from Arzignano, Italy and was selected because it met specific requirements designating it as environmentally sound. Two points in the sustainability column!

Perhaps the most interesting feature of these shoes is the artfully rounded toe. This very well thought out design lends a level of sophistication to sneakers that instantly stand out. In fact, it is one of the most recognizable features of the shoe.

The Bottom Line

Winter weather is on sabbatical. Do yourself — and your feet — a favor and treat yourself to a pair of fresh new sneakers. You deserve it.

The sneakers listed above are stylish, sustainable, and versatile. You certainly can’t go wrong with any of them. There are options to suit your lifestyle whether you trend toward more athletic pursuits or you are seeking something that will elevate your business casual needs.

Thanks, as always, for reading.

The Perfect Spring & Summer Alternative To A Navy Blazer 

Consider a light blue linen sport coat your spring and summer alternative a classic navy blazer.

Before I get into this post, let me just state one thing for the record: there really is no substitute for a classic navy blazer when it comes to a well-rounded traditional menswear wardrobe. And I’ll go one step further and also state for the record — for those overly concerned with semantics — that I know there is a difference between a blazer and a sport coat. A lot of folks use the terms interchangeably and rather than than talk down and be snobbish, I prefer to meet people where they are — there are other places on the menswear internet to get your fill of snobbery. That’s just not what we do at He Spoke Style.

But back to the first point.

Although technically there is no such thing as a classic navy blazer substitute, when it comes to spring and summer, it’s nice to have an alternative that is perhaps just a bit more complementary to the season. The spring and summer color palate tends to lean a little lighter and brighter and if, like me, you like to keep things classic, choosing a lighter and brighter sport coat is a great way to go.

Enter our light blue herringbone linen sport coat.

Here’s what we’ll be covering in this post:

  • Benefits of a linen sport coat for spring and summer.
  • A comprehensive look at the fabric of our light blue herringbone linen sport coat.
  • Jacket styling and my personal styling in this post.

Simple and straight to the point so let’s jump right in.

5 Benefits Of A Linen Sport Coat For Spring & Summer

There are some specific benefits to having a linen sport coat in your spring and summer wardrobe rotation. Let’s take a look at five of them.

  1. Breathability. Linen is a highly breathable material, which helps you stay cool during the warmer months. I know there are some non-believers out there, but this is because the fabric naturally allows heat to escape, preventing any stickiness or discomfort.
  2. Lightweight. A linen sport coat is lightweight, making it extremely comfortable to wear in the spring and summer months. This makes it easy to travel with or carry around without feeling burdened. Additionally, this lightness in weight does not compromise the jacket’s structure or its ability to provide a sleek, well-tailored look. Just make sure you’re bringing a steamer along with you because linen wrinkles quite easily.
  3. Durability. Despite being generally lightweight, linen is very durable and can withstand regular, consistent wear. It is resistant to damage from abrasion and unlikely to pill or produce lint. This means that with proper care, your linen sport coat will last for many years, providing excellent value for your money.
  4. Versatility. Linen sport coats are versatile and can be dressed up or down for various occasions — especially in a light blue. They can be paired with a formal shirt for business meetings, or with a casual t-shirt for a more relaxed look. Again, versatility equals money well spent.
  5. Style. Wearing a linen sport coat can add a touch of sophistication and elegance to your spring and summer looks. A linen coat can enhance a simple outfit, making it look more polished and put-together — see: this post — and furthermore, they come in a variety of colors and patterns, allowing you to choose one that suits your personal style. More on that in just a second.

Now that you understand what makes a linen sport coat such a great addition to your spring and summer wardrobe, let’s take a closer look at our version.

The Fabric: Solbiati Linen

Not all linen is created equal and we went out of our way to source some of the best for our light blue herringbone linen sport coat.

Solbiati Linen is renowned for its superior quality and exquisite textures. Woven in Italy, Solbiati has a long history of creating luxurious linen fabrics that are durable, comfortable, and stylish. The brand is committed to maintaining the highest standards of production, ensuring that each piece of fabric undergoes rigorous quality checks. Solbiati Linen, in particular, is recognized for its breathability, lightness, and durability.

The brand offers a variety of colors and patterns, catering to a wide variety of personal styles. As you can see, we’ve chosen a linen with a beautiful herringbone. From afar, it looks solid, but up close its exquisite detailing reveals itself. Always the best kind of details, in my opinion.

Linen can sometimes feel a little coarse, but the Solbiati linen in our sport coat is incredibly soft with a pleasing hand. Yet despite its luxurious feel, it is built to last, providing an excellent value proposition — a super sound investment.

Jacket Styling

In terms of jacket styling, I’ve outfitted it pretty much as you’ve come to expect from me. Notch lapel — my typical width is three and a half inches — flap pockets, double vent, and half-lined. While I generally choose patch pockets for the majority of my sport coats, I decided to go with flap pockets here just to give myself a little more flexibility in terms of styling.

When I designed this jacket, I envisioned wearing it as a guest at a spring or summer wedding, so I felt as though flap pockets — at least in that particular use case — would make it more functional.

My favorite part of this sport coat is the button choice. With a light and bright spring and summer jacket like this, I love a high-contrast button. The light cream color really stands out and really adds to the sportiness of the jacket overall. As always, any of these details can be customized to your personal style preferences.

Now let’s talk outfit styling.

Pretty darn simple and straight down the fairway here. I’ve got a white poplin dress shirt paired with our navy blue cotton trousers. Although I love these shoes, I often find it difficult to style them as the cognac color is just a little bright for the vast majority of my looks, but for classic spring and summer style, they’re a perfect match.

One final note. While I will typically forgo a pocket square with sport coat and trousers outfits — I think it can create a bit of a distraction and imbalance in the overall look — here, I’ve gone with a simple white pocket square as I like how it ties into the shirt and brings everything together.

The Bottom Line

To sum things up, a light blue linen sport coat is a versatile, stylish, and comfortable choice for your spring and summer wardrobe. Our version, made from a luxurious Solbiati linen, offers breathability, durability, and a flattering silhouette.

Whether attending a business meeting, a casual event, or a summer wedding, this sport coat will ensure you look polished and put-together. Never forget that investing in quality and timeless style is always a good choice.

Thanks, as always, for reading.

The 6 Best Spring Fragrances For Men Right Now 

Taking a look at some of my favorite spring fragrances.

Just as we transition our wardrobes from winter to spring, we also need to change up our fragrances as well. So let’s take a look at six of my favorite and, in my opinion, best spring fragrances for men right now.

What Do I Look For In A Spring Fragrance?

Before we get into my six picks, you might be wondering: what makes a fragrance a great spring fragrance?

  1. Complement the season. Obviously, one of the most important things is that the fragrance complements the season. Much like we choose our clothing depending on the season, same goes for fragrance. When it comes to scents, I take my cues from nature — green, citrusy, fresh, and vegetal.
  2. Light and transparent. Spring is not the time for heavy fragrances. Sorry to recycle the clothing analogy again, but it’s the same idea. Heavier fabrics, like flannel, tweed, and cashmere, are for fall and winter and it’s the same for heavier scents. I guarantee if you wore a crazy thick and rich oud you wouldn’t feel quite right. That’s why I always look for fragrances that are light and transparent for spring — just like a nice breeze.
  3. Unique and distinct. You should always choose fragrances that speak to you. And for me, I like to use fragrance as a way to stand out even if its just in a subtle way. It’s one of the reasons I primarily stick with niche fragrances.

Those are the three qualities I look for in a spring fragrance. Now let’s take a look at my six current favorites for the season.

01

Le Labo Santal

Le Labo’s Santal 33 is honestly so ubiquitous these days that it almost — almost — feels like a stretch to refer to it as a niche fragrance. Introduced in 2011, it quickly gained immense popularity not just as a personal fragrance but as a go-to scent for the chicest hotel lobbies. In fact, it’s a bit of a running joke between my wife and I that if you want to smell like a Soho hotel lobby, you should wear Santal 33.

  • Top notes: Iris, Violet
  • Heart notes: Cardamom, Amber, Papyrus
  • Base notes: Australian Sandalwood, Cedarwood

All jokes aside, there’s a reason why this fragrance continues to enjoy such massive acclaim. Frankly, it’s intoxicating. It’s certainly a sandalwood fragrance but is not nearly as sweet and cloying as other favorites in the category such as Creed’s Original Santal or Geo. F. Trumper Sandalwood, which is one of the reasons it’s so eminently wearable. If compliments are what you seek, you can’t go wrong with this one.

02

Frédéric Malle Geranium Pour Monsieur

Geranium Pour Monsieur was created by Dominique Ropion for Frédéric Malle in 2009. Some of his other creations for the house include Portrait Of A Lady, Carnal Flower, and Vetiver Extraordinaire — all considered stunning achievements. And Geranium Pour Monsieur is no exception.

  • Top notes: Mint, Aniseed, Geranium
  • Base notes: Sandalwood, Frankincense

There are a couple things I definitely need to point out about this one. First, do not be misled by this fragrance’s name. Despite being named for a flowering plant and qualified as “for him,” this is not a floral fragrance. While there are hints of geranium, they are balanced perfectly with the freshness of the mint and a very slight spicy bite of the aniseed. The overall effect is fresh, light, airy, and transparent.

The second thing to point out is also related to the notes — specifically, the base notes. You might thing that the dry down would be something in the sweet/churchy realm but that never really materializes. The opening flourish pretty much stays around for the entire life of the fragrance although you’ll notice the mint dissipate the most. Geranium Pour Monsieur is an excellent daily wear spring fragrance and has been my signature scent this season.

03

Ralph Lauren Polo Blue

Although I am generally a bit of a niche fragrance snob, I think there is something special about Ralph Lauren fragrances. One of the reasons I typically steer clear of most designer fragrances is because, frankly, most of them smell pretty much the same to me. One of the joys of wearing fragrance is to find something that is unique and “you.”

  • Top notes: Cantaloupe Melon Accord, Cucumber Accord, Watery Melon Accord, Bergamot Oil
  • Heart notes: Aquatic Accord, Clary Sage Oil, Geranium Oil, Basil Verbena Oil
  • Base notes: Washed Suede Accord, Patchouli Heart, Sheer Musk Accord

I’ll be honest and say that before I even smelled Polo Blue, I thought it was going to be like every other springlike designer fragrance out there. But — spoiler alert — it’s not. In some ways it is exactly what you’d expect out of a spring fragrance. It’s crisp, fresh, and light. But there’s some sort of special Ralph Lauren “sauce” in there that gives it a bit of zip and spice on the top and a distinctly classic feel, despite being introduced in 2002. It’s extremely long-lasting and as it dries down it develops a nice richness on the base. Wear it all day, everyday.

04

Diptyque Philosykos

While perhaps best known for their candles, Diptyque also has a solid fragrance lineup as well. Philosykos was created by Olivia Giacobetti in 1996. Renowned for her ability to produce fragrances inspired by nature, Philosykos — which means “friend of the fig tree” in Greek — is a celebration of every single part of that tree.

  • Top notes: Fig Tree Sap, Fig Leaves
  • Heart notes: Grassy Greens, Pepper
  • Base notes: Fig Tree Wood, White Cedarwood

This fragrance is light, bright, and sweet that is balanced with green vegetal undertones. Although Philosykos is considered a unisex fragrance, it does lean just a touch to the feminine side due to its sweetness. Just a bit of caution for those who may be intrigued by the sound of this one, but who prefer an overall more masculine scent.

05

Christian Dior Eau Sauvage

Not to be confused with the newer Sauvage, Christian Dior’s Eau Sauvage was introduced in 1966 and was actually Dior’s first fragrance for men. It is an absolute classic and I would even go so far as to say that this fragrance is iconic.

  • Top notes: Lemon, Bergamot, Basil, Lavender
  • Heart notes: Jasmine, Rose, Carnation, Patchouli, Sandalwood
  • Base notes: Oakmoss, Vetiver, Musk, Amber

On the surface, it seems like a very, very simple fragrance, however, as you spend more time with it, you realize that it has a lot more depth and a lot more complexity. It also lasts quite a while — I would say five to eight hours — which is not typical of a fragrance that is more citrusy. This is a fragrance you could wear all year round, any time of day, for any type of event, and it would not seem out of place. One of the true classics of men’s fragrance.

06

Creed Aventus

Speaking of classics . . . It may seem strange to call Creed’s Aventus a “classic” since it was introduced just a little more than a decade ago in 2010, but in the short amount of time it has become a modern classic.

  • Top notes: Lemon, Pink Pepper, Apple, Bergamot, Blackcurrant
  • Heart notes: Pineapple, Jasmine, Patchouli
  • Base notes: Birch, Ambroxan, Cedarwood, Oakmoss, Musk

I’ve been a fan of Creed fragrances for some time — my first foray into the house was with Millesime Imperial about 10 years ago — but was a little late getting into Aventus, simply because of its wild popularity. That said, I freaking love it. Looking at the notes, you’d be forgiven if you thought it felt like a jumble of a bunch of stuff, but it’s fresh, masculine, and truly distinct. I’ve often tried to put my finger on what makes it so special and I believe it’s that little hint of pineapple you get. If you’re not ready to pull the trigger on a whole bottle, get a sample and see what the buzz is about.

The Bottom Line

Finding the perfect spring fragrance is a matter of personal taste. I always look for fragrances that complement the season, are light and transparent, and are unique and distinct. I’ve shared six of my current favorites, now it’s your turn. Join the conversation and leave your favorite spring scents down below in the comments.

Thanks, as always, for reading.

5 Statement Dinner Jackets Guaranteed To Turn Heads 

When it comes to selecting a statement dinner jacket, you’re either quite familiar with formalwear and looking to deepen your wardrobe or you’re someone who likes to bend the rules.

Many men today might find formalwear overly prescriptive, stuffy, and stifling to their personality. The good news is that there are many ways to make it your own. And one of the best is to take the centerpiece of any black tie outfit — the dinner jacket — and make it a statement piece.

Today, we’re taking a look at five statement dinner jackets that will let you fit in while still standing out at even the most formal events (outside of white tie and morning dress).

There are dinner jackets and dinner jackets . . . this is the latter.

Vesper Lynd in Casino Royale

A Quick Look at Statement Dinner Jackets

Dinner jackets — interchangeable with tuxedo jackets in American vernacular — are a staple of men’s formalwear. Whether it’s a black-tie event for work, a wedding, or you’re walking a red carpet, dinner jackets are a must have for a formal evening.

Dinner jackets are distinguishable from suit jackets in a number of ways. First, where a suit or sport coat typically has two buttons, a dinner jacket will only have one (unless it’s double-breasted). The lapels on a dinner jacket should be either peak or shawl and are typically made from a different fabric than the rest of the jacket, often satin or silk — though they can be self-facing as well, which means made in the same fabric as the jacket.

Dinner jackets should also only have jetted pockets that help create a sleek silhouette, whereas suit and sport coats have more variety, offering jetted, flap, or patch pockets. Suits and sports coats also come in a wide range of colors, fabrics and patters, from a glen check sports coat to a standard navy blue hopsack. Dinner jackets, meanwhile, typically come in black or midnight blue.

But while dinner jackets might seem like a simple choice between just a handful of options — there are dinner jackets that make room for expression and can complement your personality and style.

01

Subtle, But Bold

It probably won’t come as a shock that black is a staple of black-tie events. You’re likely familiar with the sleek and traditional look of a jet-black tuxedo, but where traditional tuxedo jackets are often made from wool or silk, a velvet dinner jacket adds a subtle but bold touch to otherwise more traditional formalwear.

Velvet is a supple, soft, and luxurious weave of silks, cottons, and other fibers. It’s a fabric that screams elegance and exclusivity; think rope-lines at exclusive clubs or the red carpet at the Oscars (it’s actually made of nylon but made to look like velvet). Velvet is an extraordinary fabric that belongs at the most extraordinary types of events.

Our double-breasted black velvet dinner jacket is a great way to mix up your formalwear staples. Its base is a beautiful, soft black velvet and comes in a 4×2 double-breasted configuration. It has just the right kind of subtlety that allows you to stand out without looking like you’re trying too hard.

02

All-Over Print

Another traditional color of men’s formalwear is dark blue. While black is obviously more traditional, navy or midnight blue are common deviations from the norm. Our navy floral print dinner jacket is a spin on the conservatism of the traditional dark-blue dinner jacket by spicing it up with a unique all-over floral pattern.

A single-button closure with jetted pockets and a long, draping shawl collar keeps this jacket grounded in the tradition of men’s formalwear, but its pattern is what makes it shine. The floral pattern can do all the talking when paired smartly with black tuxedo pants and a crisp white shirt and bow tie. This is the kind of jacket that gets you compliments because it stands out while keeping things smart and sophisticated.

03

Standout Color & Fabric

There’s certainly nothing wrong with blacks and blues . . . but there’s also nothing wrong with adding a pop of color to your wardrobe — and our purple Dupioni silk dinner jacket fits the bill with its iridescent purple styling.

While it’s a solid color and pattern, you’ll notice the weave of the Dupioni silk gives it some visual interest and texture thanks to an irregular weft, which are the threads running horizontally through the weave.

This dinner jacket is quite a statement and shuns the rules in the right ways. Rather than a traditional satin or silk lapel, this jacket takes pulls inspiration from regular suiting in keeping the lapel fabric the same as the body — unusual for tuxedo styling but not a dinner jacket. However, it maintains its formal elevation thanks to its single-button enclosure, jetted pockets and peak lapels, which also have a nice pick stitching.

Let this jacket speak for itself by staying conservative with the rest of your outfit. Black pants, a cummerbund, white shirt, and bow tie will pair nicely.

Who said formal wear has to be stuffy?

04

Devil May Care!

If black is more your style, consider our black and gold jacquard dinner jacket. The pattern in the fabric is not the product embroidery, but actually done with a weave. “Jacquard” gets its name from Joseph Marie Jacquard, who invented a machine that attaches to the loom and allows for such intricate pattern making.

Few things are as elevated as gold and few events more elevated than black tie. It’s a perfect melding of two colors that pair perfectly together. The golden pattern on the jacket catches the light and provides a stand-out visual interest that’s perfect for New Year’s Eve parties, galas, or other celebratory events.

Notice too, the cuffs on the jacket are made of the same fabric as the lapel adding an extra touch to the jacket’s styling.

05

Unexpected Tinge

Finally, continuing with Jacquard prints — our brown jacquard metallic dinner jacket is a bit more subtle than the black and gold number above. Instead, it’s a jacket to get up-close-and-personal with.

From a distance, you might see it as a brown or burgundy jacket with a sheen, but it’s up close where you can see the detail and pattern as the copper coloring in the pattern catches the light.

This jacket is also distinguishable from the black-and-gold Jacquard dinner jacket by its black shawl lapel, which is considered more formal than a peak lapel.

The Bottom Line

The jackets on this list are statement dinner jackets and should be worn as such — they’re for striking a chord when you walk through the door.

Versatility should not be the goal here. These are not jackets to be worn in a wide variety of situations. Dinner jackets should be worn at formal evening events as their design makes them too elevated to be worn anywhere else.

And while versatility is something to look for in most garments, here with formal evening wear, it is a very specific type of circumstances for which your are dressing up. The good news is, what these jackets lack in versatility they make up for uniqueness.